Just outside of plain sight lies majestic Cabresto Lake. Online information advises hikers to park two miles from the trailhead and hoof it in—yet a solid vehicle with four-wheel drive and high clearance can easily (if bumpily) make the 15-minute trip to the paved segment on a rocky road. You will need to drive very slowly.
Note that the trail difficulty is moderate and steep in some spots. The total hike length presents the most significant challenge, clocking in at approximately 11.2 miles round trip. This hike is recommended during the longer summer days with a trailhead departure of no later than 8:30 a.m., to provide maximum light and minimize exposure to thunderstorms.
In early June, three intrepid senior citizens (ages 61, 65, and 74) set out for the round trip, on a partly cloudy and mild day (high 60s). While this walk can be completed solo, note that this trail is relatively empty and one rarely encounters other hikers. There is also little cell service, which makes for serious solitude and few interruptions.
Recommended gear includes a light day pack, lunch, and a snack, as well as three quarts of water per person. Two jackets are recommended, including both a rain jacket and a jacket for warmth. A small first-aid kit and flashlight should be included. Wearing hiking boots and poles is of benefit. This hike is windy, and rain is not unusual.
The journey
The initial trail is adjacent to Cabresto Lake and runs parallel. About one-fourth of a mile in, a small gnome village is on the right next to a large tree. While it has become worn over the years, it is still highly visible. The next major landmark is the signage that designates departure from Carson National Forest and entry into the Latir Peak Wilderness.
All is public land and is currently well maintained with few large trees to hurdle. Once the lake is passed, the early stages are heavily wooded, shaded, and very green, buried in pines and aspens. The trail winds uphill gradually on a consistent grade to the Heart Lake endpoint. At about 10,200 feet, one has gained 991 vertical feet and is met by a bridge on the left, at mile three.
After the bridge passage, the footing includes a soft bed of fallen pine needles. Unlike many of the paths in Carson Forest and across Taos County, this one is not overly rocky or covered with roots. Note that in early summer, there are still small piles of snow on the upper reaches, but minimal enough that spikes are not necessary.
The serious uphill
The segment from the bridge to Heart Lake is primarily an uphill slog that eventually opens to the sky with no tree canopy. For a majority of the walk, a roaring stream is adjacent. As one nears Heart Lake, a sign “To Heart Lake/Lake Fork Trail” appears and requires a slight left turn. Once the stream is crossed, the walk is about ten minutes to the lakeside and to reach an altitude of 11,494 feet.
The lake is a beautiful alpine water body that appears to sit near the base of Latir Peak. The adventurous hiker can camp out on the banks and ascend the peak the following day. While this could be completed in one day, it adds ten (round-trip) miles, which for most hikers is a stretch in a single day.
The journey from Cabresto to Heart without a trip to Latir Peak is well worth it. Hikers do not climb above the tree line and are not confronted with lightning threats. Plan enough time to chill out at Heart Lake as it is remote, beautiful, and pristine.
The return
As with most hikes, the downward trip takes at least as long as the upward one, since the feet are tired and clumsy. Careful steps and coordination are required. While some might scoff at the gradual incline and descent, this is still a long walk. The downward journey offers an endless view of pine-covered mountains. As a point of reference, this is longer than the Wheeler Peak or Gold Hill path hikes.
This may well be the quietest trail in the county.
Bonus
Questa now boasts a new eatery, Rosie’s Smokehouse (Wednesday through Sunday, from 12 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.). Stopping in for a meal post-hike is the perfect end to a day outside.
Directions from the Questa traffic light:
• Head east on NM-38 toward Red River for about 50 feet
• Turn left onto Cabresto Road (Forest Access Rd/FR-563), located just behind the Visitor Center
• Follow Cabresto Road for about 6 miles
Basic trail info
Altitude: 9,200 to 11,494 feet. Length: about 11.2 miles
Jennifer Mooney and her husband, Don Mooney, live in Arroyo Seco. Her leisure time hikes include both the Carson National Forest and the Latir Peak Wilderness. She believes that there is no such thing as a bad day on the trail—only poor planning, questionable fitness, and the wrong footwear. She is a reformed communications executive and has authored one nonfiction work (“Hope, Interrupted,” 2021)
